Tudor Black Bay Red 'Smiley' 79220R

The Tudor Black Bay Red “Smiley” Ref. 79220 (often seen as 79220R when specifically referring to the red-bezel version) is one of the most collectible and beloved early examples of Tudor’s now-iconic Black Bay dive watch. Launched in the early years of the Black Bay line, this 41 mm stainless steel diver marries heritage Submariner-inspired design cues—like the big crown, snowflake hands, and domed crystal—with Tudor’s modern build quality and reliable automatic movement. What sets the “Smiley” apart is the gilt-printed dial text that curves in a way reminiscent of a smile, a charming visual quirk that, along with the vintage-style Tudor rose logo, gives the watch its unofficial nickname among enthusiasts and collectors.

The Red “Smiley” variant is specifically identified by its burgundy-red unidirectional bezel insert paired with a matte black dial that features warm gilt accents and the period-correct Tudor branding—details that strongly evoke Tudor’s classic dive watches from the mid-20th century. It’s powered by a Tudor-modified ETA 2824 automatic movement, offering dependable performance and a relatively slim profile compared with later in-house versions, which many collectors appreciate for everyday wear and comfort. Because it was produced only during the first generation of Black Bays (before Tudor switched to in-house calibres and updated dial logos), the Smiley has become especially sought-after in the secondary market, often fetching a premium relative to later Black Bay models.

Reference: 79220

Bracelet: Stainless Steel Bracelet

Case Size: 41mm x 13mm Thickness

Lug Width: 22mm

Case Metal: Stainless Steel

Dial: Black Smiley

Movement: ETA 2824 - Automatic

Functions: Hours, Minutes, Seconds

Accessories: No boxes or papers - watch only

Crystal: Sapphire

Bracelet size: 7”

Case has light wear with a couple marks. Bracelet has minimal ight wear. Dial, hands, and crystal have no wear.

Tudor was established in 1926 by Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, with a vision to create watches that offered the same reliability and precision as Rolex, but at a more accessible price point. Built with robust Swiss movements and housed in Rolex-quality cases, Tudor quickly earned a reputation for producing tool watches trusted by military units and professional divers around the world. In the 1950s and ‘60s, Tudor introduced iconic models like the Oyster Prince Submariner, worn by the French Navy, and carved out a legacy as a maker of rugged, no-nonsense timepieces built to perform under extreme conditions.

In recent years, Tudor has reemerged as one of the most exciting names in modern watchmaking. Collections like the Black Bay, Pelagos, and Ranger pay homage to the brand’s vintage roots while incorporating in-house calibers and contemporary design updates. The Black Bay Fifty-Eight, in particular, has become a collector favorite for its perfect blend of vintage proportions and modern engineering. With a design language all its own and a renewed focus on manufacturing independence, Tudor has established itself as far more than Rolex’s younger sibling—it’s a brand that balances heritage, innovation, and value with serious horological credibility.