1964 Grand Seiko Self Dater 57GS 43999 'Applied Dial'

Celebrate one of the quiet legends of Japanese horology: the Grand Seiko 57GS “Self Dater” ref. 43999 in the rare Applied Dial (AD) variation. Coming out circa 1964, this timepiece marked a turning point—Grand Seiko’s first with a date window, and executed with the same obsession for finish, precision, and understated elegance that defines the brand.

On the dial you’ll find polished applied indices and a beautifully sun-burst silver finish, accompanied by the applied “Grand Seiko” branding—hence the AD classification. Underneath that subtle sophistication beats the hand-wound calibre (430/5722 series), with 35 jewels and chronometer-grade performance in the early versions. The case strikes a strong presence despite its vintage dimensions (roughly 36.5 mm), with broad lugs and flawless Zaratsu-style polishing—a design aesthetic that would go on to shape all future Grand Seiko models.

Whether you’re shopping this piece or simply admiring it, the 57GS 43999 AD is more than a vintage dress watch—it’s a statement of heritage, craftsmanship, and the turning point at which Grand Seiko began setting its own high bar.

Reference: 43999

Production Date: 1964

Strap: Black Leather Strap

Case Size: 36.5mm

Lug Width: 19mm

Case Metal: Stainless Steel

Movement: 430- Manual - Running (+7s/d 295 amp)

Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date

Box and Papers: No box or papers - Watch Only

Crystal: Acrylic

Wrist Size: 7.5"

Case has some light scratches with nothing deep or notable. Strap has normal amount of creasing but no marks. Dial has a couple spots but clean other than that. Hands and crystal are clean. Watch was running (+7s/d 295 amp).

Seiko's history began in 1881 when Kintaro Hattori opened a watch shop in Tokyo. In 1892, he established Seikosha, a factory for producing wall clocks. The company quickly progressed, creating Japan's first wristwatch, the Laurel, in 1913. Despite setbacks like the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923, Seiko persevered, launching its first watch under the Seiko brand name in 1924.

The post-World War II era saw Seiko's rapid growth and innovation. They introduced Japan's first automatic wristwatch in 1956 and launched the prestigious Grand Seiko line in 1960. Seiko achieved international recognition for accuracy in 1968, winning a Geneva Observatory competition. 

The company made a name for its divers in 1965 with the introduction of their first professional dive watch, the 62MAS. This was followed by the iconic 6159-7001 in 1968, which was water-resistant to 300 meters. Seiko gained international recognition in 1975 with the release of the 6159-7010, nicknamed the "Tuna Can" due to its distinctive case shape. In 1969, they revolutionized the industry with the Astron, the world's first quartz wristwatch, ushering a new era of watchmaking that would send waves across the industry through the 70s and 80s. From its humble beginnings to becoming a global watchmaking giant, Seiko's history is characterized by resilience, technological advancement, and a commitment to precision.