Favre Leuba x Jean Rousseau Deep Raider Revival 00.20307.100.83.101

The Favre Leuba × Jean Rousseau Deep Raider Revival Ref. 00.20307.100.83.101 is the leather edition from a three-watch collaboration combining Favre Leuba’s historic dive-watch design with the craftsmanship of French strapmaker Jean Rousseau. Limited to just 33 pieces worldwide, this version features a handcrafted black calfskin strap with a textured “Soja Grain” finish and contrasting beige wave-pattern stitching. The 39mm 316L stainless steel case measures 12.75mm thick and 48mm lug-to-lug, surrounding a grey sunray dial with rhodium-plated applied indexes and Old Radium Super-LumiNova X1. Subtle black accents on the central seconds hand and vintage Favre Leuba monogram at 10:30 coordinate specifically with the leather strap. A box-shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment, unidirectional dive bezel with sapphire insert, and 300 meters of water resistance maintain the professional specifications of the Deep Raider Revival, a design created in homage to Favre Leuba’s 1964 Deep Blue diver. The Watch Pages
Inside is Favre Leuba’s automatic Calibre FLD01, based on the La Joux-Perret G100. The 24-jewel movement operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and provides approximately 68 hours of power reserve, along with central seconds and a date display. Jean Rousseau’s contribution goes beyond the strap itself: its underside is signed “JR for Favre Leuba 1737,” the folding clasp carries both brands’ signatures, and the closed caseback receives a special hide-shaped emblem identifying this as the leather edition. Only 33 examples were produced in this configuration, alongside 33 technical-fabric and 33 rubber versions for 99 pieces across the entire collaboration. With its tiny production run, handcrafted Jean Rousseau leather, coordinated dial details, long-reserve Swiss movement, and connection to Favre Leuba’s 1960s diving heritage, the 00.20307.100.83.101 is the most classically styled of the three Deep Raider Revival collaboration pieces.

Reference: 00.20307.100.83.101

Limited: 33 Pieces

Bracelet: Black Leather Jean Rousseau Strap - Stainless Steel Deployant

Case: 39mm x 12.75mm Thickness - Stainless Steel

Lug Width: 19mm

Movement: FLD01 - Automatic - 68 Hour Power Reserve

Functions: HMS, Date

Box and Papers: Inner/outer boxes, and warranty card

Crystal: Sapphire

Water Resistance: 300M

Bracelet size: 7.85”

New

Favre Leuba traces its roots back to 1737 in Le Locle, Switzerland, when Abraham Favre is documented as running his own watchmaking workshop.
Over the next generations, his descendants expanded the firm: in 1792 a formal firm “A. Favre & Fils” was established, and by 1815 Henry-Auguste Favre partnered with Auguste Leuba, coalescing into the name Favre-Leuba.

The brand became known not just for fine complications and precise movements, but for technical innovation: in the 1950s and 60s, Favre Leuba developed proprietary calibers (FL101, FL103/104) and produced landmark tool watches such as the Bivouac—the first mechanical wristwatch combining altimeter and barometer—and the Deep Blue diver’s watch.

However, the quartz revolution of the 1970s–80s strained many traditional mechanical watchmakers, and in 1985 the Favre family was forced to cede control of the company.

Over the years the brand passed through various owners, including stints with LVMH and, later, Titan (of India).
Ethos Watches
In recent years, Favre Leuba has attempted revivals and re-launches: in 2011 Titan acquired it, and as of 2024–2025 it is undergoing yet another revival with fresh watch collections, renewed branding (dropping the hyphen), and an eye toward reconnecting with its heritage—particularly its longstanding ties to India.