Doxa x Hodinkee SUB ARMY 200T 804.10.031.29-SE17

The DOXA x Hodinkee SUB Army 200T Ref. 804.10.031.29-SE17 is a modern reinterpretation of one of DOXA’s rarest military-inspired dive watches, created in 2026 as the first collaboration between DOXA and Hodinkee. Limited to just 250 pieces worldwide, the watch draws inspiration from the original DOXA Army Ref. 11891-4 developed around 1970, translating its utilitarian military aesthetic into the considerably more wearable SUB 200T platform. The 316L stainless steel case measures 39mm across, 41.5mm lug-to-lug, and only 10.7mm thick, surrounding a textured tan dial with a contrasting grey outer minute track and warm Old Radium Super-LumiNova. A grey anodized aluminum unidirectional 60-minute bezel, flat sapphire crystal with internal anti-reflective coating, screw-down caseback, and 200 meters of water resistance complete the compact tool-watch design. It is supplied on a tan rubber strap with a ratcheting wetsuit extension clasp, along with an additional grey NATO strap.

Inside is the Swiss-made Sellita SW200-1a Elaboré automatic movement, specially decorated by DOXA and hidden behind a solid engraved caseback in keeping with the watch’s straightforward military character. The 26-jewel movement operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and delivers approximately 38 hours of power reserve while providing hours, minutes, seconds, and a date display. What makes this edition particularly compelling is how closely its aged tan-and-grey palette references surviving examples of the original DOXA Army, whose black coatings often wore away through years of hard use to reveal warmer tones underneath. Rather than simply reproducing the vintage watch, DOXA and Hodinkee recreated that well-worn character from the outset and paired it with the slimmer, more approachable dimensions of the SUB 200T. With production capped at only 250 examples, the 804.10.031.29-SE17 combines genuine DOXA military heritage, unusual vintage-inspired detailing, and one of the smallest production runs among modern SUB Army releases.

Reference: 804.10.031.29-SE17

Dated: 2026

Bracelet: Tan rubber strap, with additional grey NATO

Case: 49mm - Stainless Steel

Lug Width: 18mm

Movement: Sellita SW200-1a Elaboré decorated by DOXA - Automatic

Functions: HMS, Date

Box and Papers: Box and Papers

Crystal: Sapphire

Bracelet size: 7.75”

Case has light normal wear. Strap has little to no wear. Dial, hands, and crystal have no wear.

DOXA, founded in 1889 by Georges Ducommun in Le Locle, Switzerland, has a rich history of watchmaking innovation. Initially gaining recognition for its pocket watches and dashboard clocks, DOXA's defining moment came in 1967 with the introduction of the SUB 300 dive watch. This groundbreaking timepiece, featuring an iconic orange dial, unique no-decompression bezel, and purpose-built design for recreational divers, quickly became a benchmark in the industry. Notably, in collaboration with Rolex and the introduction of the Sea-Dweller, DOXA co-developed the now-common helium escape valve concept, adding another feather in its cap as a true diver’s tool in its day. DOXA's reputation was further enhanced by its association with Jacques-Yves Cousteau and its frequent appearance in Clive Cussler's adventure novels.

Despite facing challenges during the quartz crisis, DOXA experienced a resurgence after its acquisition by the Jenny family in 1997. Today, the brand continues to honor its diving heritage while embracing modern watchmaking techniques. DOXA's journey from a small Swiss workshop to a globally recognized dive watch manufacturer demonstrates its enduring commitment to innovation, quality, and functionality. The brand's iconic designs, particularly the SUB series, remain popular among diving enthusiasts and watch collectors alike, cementing DOXA's place in horological history.