1995 Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute 'Lemania' A12023

The 1995 Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute "Lemania" A12023 is one of the most coveted modern Cosmonaute references, combining the iconic aviation heritage of the Navitimer with a movement that has become legendary among collectors. Produced for just a short period in 1995, the A12023 features a 41.5mm stainless steel case, a sapphire display caseback, Breitling's signature circular slide-rule bezel, and the Cosmonaute's distinctive 24-hour dial—originally developed for astronaut Scott Carpenter, who requested a dial that differentiated day from night while orbiting the Earth. Its crisp black dial, contrasting silver sub-registers, and manually wound chronograph layout perfectly capture the golden era of aviation watches while remaining instantly recognizable as a true Navitimer.

What truly sets the A12023 apart is the movement inside. Rather than using the later ETA-based calibers found in many Breitling chronographs, this reference is powered by the manually wound Breitling Caliber 12, a modified Lemania 1873 architecture—the same movement family that famously powered the Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. For the Cosmonaute, Breitling adapted the movement to display a full 24-hour dial, creating a unique combination of proven chronograph engineering and space-inspired functionality. The exhibition caseback allows collectors to admire this historically significant movement, making the A12023 one of the very few Navitimers to showcase its mechanical heart.

Today, the A12023 has earned cult status among Breitling enthusiasts thanks to its short production run, display caseback, and desirable Lemania-powered movement. Many collectors consider it one of the finest manual-wind Navitimers ever produced, offering a direct mechanical connection to both the Moonwatch and Breitling's own rich aviation legacy. As interest in 1990s neo-vintage chronographs continues to grow, the 1995 Navitimer Cosmonaute "Lemania" stands out as a hidden gem—combining historical significance, exceptional movement pedigree, and timeless pilot-watch design into one of the most collectible Breitling references of its era.

Reference: A12023

Dated: 1995

Dial: Tritium - Black Dial

Hands: Luminova

Bracelet: Breitling Brown Leather Strap with Breitling Steel Deployant

Case Size: 41mm x 13.3mm Thickness - Stainless Steel

Lug Width: 22mm

Functions: HMS, Chronograph, slide rule calculator

Accessories: Inner/outer boxes, booklets, and warranty papers


Crystal: Sapphire

Bracelet size: 7.5”

Caliber: Breitling 12 (Lemania 1873 base) - Manual

The case has light normal micro wear with nothing notable. Strap has some wear. Hands have no wear. Dial has some discoloration. Crystal AR coating has light micro scratches but the actual glass is free of any actual damage.

Breitling, founded in 1884 by Léon Breitling in Switzerland, has a rich history of innovation in watchmaking. The company quickly established itself as a leader in precision timers and chronographs, introducing significant advancements such as the first wrist-worn chronograph with an independent pusher in 1915. Under the leadership of three generations of the Breitling family, the brand became renowned for its aviation timepieces, launching the iconic Navitimer in 1952. Despite challenges from quartz technology in the 1970s, Breitling adapted and continued to innovate, introducing models like the Chronomat and Aerospace that combined traditional craftsmanship with cutting-edge technology.

In recent years, Breitling has undergone a strategic repositioning under new ownership and leadership. While honoring its heritage, the brand has embraced modern design, sustainability, and digital innovation. Breitling has restructured its product portfolio around Air, Land, and Sea categories, reintroduced classic collections, and launched eco-friendly initiatives. The company has also ventured into digital realms with blockchain-based watch passports and a subscription service. These efforts have positioned Breitling as a forward-thinking brand that balances its storied past with contemporary consumer needs and values.