1990 Rolex Submariner 18K Yellow Gold 16618 'Blusey'

The 1990 Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 16618 “Bluesy” is an extraordinary expression of Rolex’s legendary dive watch, transforming the utilitarian Submariner into a full precious-metal statement piece. Crafted entirely from 18k yellow gold, the classic 40mm Oyster case is paired with a rich blue dial and matching blue aluminum unidirectional bezel, creating the unmistakable combination that would become one of the most recognizable configurations in Rolex history. Early examples from around 1990 retain particularly desirable neo-vintage characteristics, including tritium luminous hour markers and hands, an aluminum bezel insert, drilled lugs, and the slimmer case proportions that preceded the modern ceramic generation. Despite its luxurious construction, the 16618 remains a genuine professional dive watch with a sapphire crystal, Triplock screw-down crown, Cyclops date magnifier, and 300 meters of water resistance.

Powering the 16618 is Rolex’s legendary Caliber 3135, a 31-jewel automatic chronometer movement that debuted in the Submariner generation of the late 1980s and became one of the longest-serving and most respected movements in Rolex history. Operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offering approximately 48 hours of power reserve, the Caliber 3135 brought a full balance bridge, quick-set date, and exceptional robustness to Rolex’s flagship dive watch. The solid 18k yellow gold Oyster bracelet completes a watch that manages to be both unapologetically luxurious and authentically functional. For collectors, an early 1990 blue-dial 16618 offers a particularly compelling combination of tritium-era character, classic five-digit Rolex proportions, full-gold construction, and the legendary Caliber 3135, making it one of the standout precious-metal Submariners of the neo-vintage era.

Serial: S,839,XXX

Year: 1993

Case Reference: 16618

Dial: Tritium – Blue Dial

Hands: Tritium

Bracelet: 18K Yellow Gold Oyster

Case: 40mm - 18K Yellow Gold

Movement: 3135 - Automatic - Serviced by Rolex

Glass: Sapphire

Accessories: Inner/outer boxes, gold anchor, both hangtags, Rolex Service card, and warranty papers

Lug Width: 20mm

Functions: Hours, Minutes, Seconds, date

Bracelet size: 7.5”

Unpolished case has faint hairlines on polished sides and one notable scratch. Bracelet has only the slightest hairlines on polished center links with no stretch. Case back sticker is still intact. Dial is beginning to get the purple hue. Watch is running +6s/d 283 amp.

Rolex was founded in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis in London, before moving to Geneva in 1919 to be closer to the heart of Swiss watchmaking. From the start, Wilsdorf envisioned a wristwatch that was not only elegant, but also precise and reliable—an ambitious goal at a time when pocket watches dominated. Rolex went on to pioneer key innovations in horology, including the first officially certified chronometer wristwatch, the Oyster case (the world’s first waterproof wristwatch), and the Perpetual rotor—the self-winding mechanism that became the standard for modern automatic watches. These technical breakthroughs laid the foundation for Rolex’s enduring reputation for rugged luxury and mechanical excellence.

Today, Rolex is arguably the most recognized name in watches, with models like the Submariner, Daytona, Datejust, and GMT-Master becoming cultural icons in their own right. Whether tied to deep-sea exploration, motorsport, aviation, or mountain summits, each model reflects the brand’s commitment to performance and precision under extreme conditions. The brand’s status is bolstered by its unmatched consistency in design, rigorous in-house testing, and long-standing associations with exploration, sport, and achievement. For collectors and enthusiasts, Rolex represents more than a timepiece—it’s a benchmark of mechanical reliability, timeless design, and global prestige.