1990 Rolex GMT Master II 16710 'Coke'

The 1990 Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 16710 “Coke” represents an especially desirable early example of one of Rolex’s most iconic travel watches. Introduced in 1989 as the successor to the thicker 16760 “Fat Lady,” the 16710 retained the distinctive red-and-black aluminum “Coke” bezel while introducing a slimmer and more wearable 40mm Oyster case. A 1990 example belongs firmly to the tritium era, featuring the period-correct “SWISS–T<25” dial and tritium-filled hands and hour markers, which can develop the warm creamy patina prized by collectors today. The bidirectional 24-hour bezel works alongside the red GMT hand to track additional time zones, while the sapphire crystal, Cyclops date magnifier, drilled lug holes, and classic Oyster bracelet give this early 16710 the perfect combination of vintage Rolex character and modern durability.

Powering the 1990 GMT-Master II is Rolex’s Caliber 3185, a COSC-certified automatic movement operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour and featuring an independently adjustable local hour hand. This “jumping” hour hand allows travelers to change local time in one-hour increments without stopping the movement or disturbing the minutes and GMT hand, making the 16710 a genuinely practical travel watch. With 100 meters of water resistance and Rolex’s famously robust Oyster construction, it was designed to withstand everyday professional use while maintaining excellent precision. Early tritium examples such as those from 1990 are particularly compelling today, combining the original Coke aluminum bezel, aging tritium, drilled-lug case, Caliber 3185, and slimmer five-digit proportions that disappeared from the GMT-Master II line with the arrival of the ceramic generation.

Serial: E,526,XXX

Case Year: 1990

Case Reference: 16710

Case: 40mm - Stainless Steel

Dial:&nbsp;Tritium

Hands:&nbsp;Luminova

Bezel: Coke

Bracelet: Stainless Steel

Movement: Rolex 3185 – Serviced August 2026 - One year warranty

Glass: Sapphire

Accessories: Inner box, serialized hangtag, and warranty papers

Case has some light micro wear. Bracelet has minimal stretch with light wear. Dial is clean with lume becoming a light beige. Hands are luminova service hands with some wear. Watch was serviced by us August 2026 and comes with a one year warranty on the movement.

Rolex was founded in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis in London, before moving to Geneva in 1919 to be closer to the heart of Swiss watchmaking. From the start, Wilsdorf envisioned a wristwatch that was not only elegant, but also precise and reliable—an ambitious goal at a time when pocket watches dominated. Rolex went on to pioneer key innovations in horology, including the first officially certified chronometer wristwatch, the Oyster case (the world’s first waterproof wristwatch), and the Perpetual rotor—the self-winding mechanism that became the standard for modern automatic watches. These technical breakthroughs laid the foundation for Rolex’s enduring reputation for rugged luxury and mechanical excellence.

Today, Rolex is arguably the most recognized name in watches, with models like the Submariner, Daytona, Datejust, and GMT-Master becoming cultural icons in their own right. Whether tied to deep-sea exploration, motorsport, aviation, or mountain summits, each model reflects the brand’s commitment to performance and precision under extreme conditions. The brand’s status is bolstered by its unmatched consistency in design, rigorous in-house testing, and long-standing associations with exploration, sport, and achievement. For collectors and enthusiasts, Rolex represents more than a timepiece—it’s a benchmark of mechanical reliability, timeless design, and global prestige.