1970's Bulova 'Royal Oak' 4423901-6

There's just something about this shape, isn't there?

Introduced to the world in 1972 on the legendary Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Reference 5402 ‘Jumbo’ penned by Gerald Genta, this strong geometric case with octagonal bezel and integrated bracelet design has gone on to find itself applied to innumerable AP models — and more than a few homages.

This particular timepiece, a Bulova Reference 4423901, is the American brand's tribute not only to the Royal Oak, but its designer, who worked for Bulova extensively in the 1960s. Admittedly, if this watch were produced today the internet would rise up with cries of, ‘Ripoff!’ — if not worse — and it’s very likely some lawyering would be involved. But in the 1970s it was a different world, and everyone was keen to get in on the new ‘Luxury Sports Watch’ category that Audemars Piguet had created — so this cool watch gets a pass!

It doesn't hurt that it's a very well built timepiece, either. Sized at 35mm it’s nearly identical in proportions to models such as the Reference 14790 by AP, and is fitted with a lovely white micro-tapisserie dial which has patinated to a lovely cream-tone — with an even finer finishing than its inspiration from Le Brassus. Powered by an automatic-winding movement and fitted with an integrated bracelet with deployant clasp bearing the Bulova 'Tuning Fork' logo, this 1980s timepiece shows just how good an homage can be executed — even if most of them aren't.

Best yet is the price point: This is an exciting design and a great story to be able to strap on for well under $5K, particularly when considering the price of entry for the ‘genuine’ article from those other guys!

Information:

Pre-Owned: 1970's Bulova 'Royal Oak' 4423901-6

Reference: 4423901-6

Circa: 1970's

Bracelet: Stainless Steel/Gold Plated

Bezel: Gold Plated

Case Size: 35mm - Stainless Steel

Movement: ETA 2892 - Automatic

Functions: Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Date

Box and Papers: No box or papers - watch only

Crystal: Sapphire

Bracelet size: 7.25"

Condition:

Case has light normal wear with nothing notable. Bracelet has moderate wear with tarnishing of the gold and some light scratches. Dial, hands, and crystal have no wear. Watch is running +8s/d 295 amp.