The Rise, Fall, and Revival of Favre-Leuba
The Rise, Fall, and Revival of Favre-Leuba
Favre-Leuba: The Rise, Fall, and Revival of the Original Tool Watch Brand
At Belmont Watches, we love a good comeback story. And there’s no brand more deserving of a second act than Favre-Leuba, one of the oldest names in Swiss watchmaking and one of the most overlooked.
Today, Favre-Leuba is flying under the radar, which is exactly why collectors in the know are starting to pay attention. With serious tool-watch heritage, pioneering designs, and a comeback backed by real engineering muscle, this is a brand that punches way above its price point.
Here’s why Favre-Leuba matters and why you’ll want one on your wrist before the rest of the world catches up.
Over 285 Years of Watchmaking? Yes, Really.
Favre-Leuba was founded in 1737, making it the second-oldest Swiss watch brand after Blancpain. But unlike other heritage brands that focused on formal dress watches, Favre-Leuba built its name on utility.
By the mid-20th century, they were designing watches for climbers, divers, and explorers long before "tool watch" became a buzzword.
Their most famous innovation? The Bivouac, introduced in 1962. It was the first mechanical wristwatch with an altimeter and barometer, used by mountaineers to predict storms and measure elevation during ascents.
The Golden Age: Bathy, Deep Blue, and More
In the 1960s and 70s, Favre-Leuba released a string of standout watches:
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Bivouac – Altimeter and barometer built into a wristwatch
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Bathy 160 – First mechanical dive watch with a depth gauge
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Deep Blue – Favre-Leuba’s answer to the Rolex Submariner
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Sea Raider – A bold, colorful diver with compressor case design
These weren’t fashion pieces. They were made for function-first adventurers, worn by climbers in the Alps and engineers working at high altitudes or deep-sea rigs.
What Happened?
Favre-Leuba didn’t survive the Quartz Crisis. Like many mechanical brands, it lost relevance in the 1980s and disappeared from Western markets, though it maintained a cult following in India and the Middle East.
The brand faded from view until a surprising savior stepped in.
Reborn by Titan Group
In 2011, Favre-Leuba was acquired by Titan Company Ltd., a division of Tata Group India’s $300B industrial giant. Titan also makes watches for the domestic market but took a different approach with Favre-Leuba: they left it in Switzerland, invested in R&D, and gave it a real shot at rebirth.
The result? Modern tool watches that continue the original mission: overbuilt, functional timepieces for professionals and adventurers.
Modern Models That Still Hit Hard
Favre-Leuba’s modern line isn’t playing dress-up. These are purpose-built instruments:
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Raider Harpoon – 500m diver with a single hand and central rotating minute ring.
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Bivouac 9000 – Modern altimeter watch capable of measuring up to 9,000 meters.
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Sky Chief Chrono – Pilot’s chronograph with classic 1960s styling and modern performance.
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Raider Sea Sky – Sporty dual-register chrono with 200m water resistance.
These watches use Sellita movements, modified for unique complications, and feature titanium cases, domed sapphire, and bold dials made for serious wear.
Why Collectors Are Starting to Notice
At Belmont, we talk to collectors every day looking for something off the beaten path. And Favre-Leuba ticks a lot of boxes:
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Real legacy (not a revived microbrand with no past)
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Genuine innovation (altimeters, single-hand displays, etc.)
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Rugged materials and excellent value
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Small production runs and niche appeal
If you like Sinn, vintage Seiko, or early Doxa, this is a brand you’ll appreciate. It’s the opposite of mass-market luxury and that’s a good thing.
Final Thoughts from Belmont Watches
Favre-Leuba is one of those rare brands that deserves a second look. With over two centuries of history and a fresh lineup of watches that hold their own against anything under $5K, it’s a collector’s sleeper pick that’s finally waking up.
Visit our San Diego showroom (walk-ins welcome, no appointment needed) or book a private consultation.
About the Author: Anthony Rynearson
Anthony Rynearson is a watch writer and enthusiast at Belmont Watches. With a passion for horology and design, he shares stories that connect collectors to the history and craftsmanship behind every timepiece.