The aluminum bezel showcases some changes from the traditional Diver 65 layout. We still get a 120-click unidirectional bezel, but the display is minimal, losing the hash marks between each five minute marker and the numerals arranged counter-clockwise, providing the Oris D65 Cal 400 with a countdown feature. Typically, I’m used to the count up bezel display, but I can see the occasional use-case for a countdown bezel for tracking how much time is left in a certain situation. The Oris D65 Cal 400 is built with a screw-down crown that measures about 4mm thick and the edged grooves make for easy tactile feedback when managing the crown.
Oris does a fantastic job producing dynamic dial colors and the D65 Cal 400 is no different. In soft lighting the dial comes off as a trout gray but in a brighter setting the dial emits a muted olive green. If you’re not keen on green dial watches, the Oris D65 Cal 400 is a perfect appetizer into that world for its neutral earthy tones. The cardinal hour markers pay tribute to the vintage Oris shield and the remaining hour markers are characterized by circular plots with white outlines. Continuing with the theme of “less is more”, Oris and Hodinkee have opted to remove the date window at three, creating a balanced and minimalist dial. As evidenced by the phosphorescent hue, the hour markers and stick hands are filled with Super Lumi-Nova, providing a brightly lit display that lasts well into the night.
Flipping the case over and viewing through the sapphire caseback, the D65 Cal 400 displays the new and innovative Calibre 400 movement from Oris. This current movement is equipped with an upgraded 5 day power reserve, an accuracy range falling within plus five / minus three seconds a day, which surpasses COSC chronometer specifications and a magnetic resistance rated to 2,250 gauss. To my immediate knowledge, Oris is one of a few independent brands that offer this type of movement ingenuity and capability, all of which is backed by the company's 10 year warranty, providing a comforting assurance to its customers to manage any issues that may arise during ownership.
Nothing completes a slick vintage watch like a steel bracelet with a smooth taper, and Oris has had this dialed in from the get-go. The Oris D65 Cal 400 lug width comes in at 19 mm and slims down to the slender 15 mm double sided release clasp. Wearability wise, the Oris D65 Cal 400 has a lot going for it. The 38 mm case size will suit a wide range of wrist sizes and will wear comfortably due to the well-executed steel bracelet. With its muted tones, the dial color fits in seamlessly with daily wear and if for whatever reason the D65 Cal 400 gets stowed away for a bit, you can expect the watch to keep accurate time for 120 hours. The Oris-Hodinkee Diver 65 Calibre 400 is a fine blend of vintage Oris cues, contemporary design and practical wearability. You can find the Oris-Hodinkee Diver 65 Calibre 400 currently priced at $4,250 and available in the Belmont Watches online shop.