Introducing Oris Diver 65 Calibre 400 Hodinkee Limited Edition

The vintage diver is something that most watch enthusiasts call a ‘must-have’ in the collection. It’s a type of watch that, when executed correctly, perfectly combines charm, utility and wearability. Oris and their Diver Sixty Five collection have touched on all these things consistently since its introduction in 1965. We’ve seen the evolution of the entire line, from an introduction to new case sizes and dynamic dial colors, to the implementation of contemporary in-house movements and limited edition collaborations. The Oris Diver Sixty Five Calibre 400 Hodinkee LE (Oris D65 Cal 400 for short) combines all of these elements, bringing together the rich brand history (as well as bright future) from Oris and the distinguished design language from powerhouse horology publication, Hodinkee. This Oris-Hodinkee D65 Cal 400 vintage has a lot to unpack. Let's dive in.
The Oris D65 Cal 400 presents like the Diver 65 we’ve come to appreciate and at one point, for me at least, have added to the collection at one point or another. However if you look more closely, there are some noticeable and welcomed differences with this specific model. The Oris D65 Cal 400 is constructed in a stainless steel case, with the face of the lugs evenly brushed and the sides finely polished. If it seems that the case seems too large to be 36 mm, and too slender to be 40 mm, that’s because this particular model measures at an uncommon (For Diver 65’s) 38 mm case width. It’s worth mentioning that this is only the second time that Oris has released a Diver 65 at this case size. The watch spans 46.5 mm lug to lug and stands at 12.6 mm giving the Oris D65 Cal 400 a balanced wrist presence on my 6.4” wrist.

The aluminum bezel showcases some changes from the traditional Diver 65 layout. We still get a 120-click unidirectional bezel, but the display is minimal, losing the hash marks between each five minute marker and the numerals arranged counter-clockwise, providing the Oris D65 Cal 400 with a countdown feature. Typically, I’m used to the count up bezel display, but I can see the occasional use-case for a countdown bezel for tracking how much time is left in a certain situation. The Oris D65 Cal 400 is built with a screw-down crown that measures about 4mm thick and the edged grooves make for easy tactile feedback when managing the crown. 

Oris does a fantastic job producing dynamic dial colors and the D65 Cal 400 is no different. In soft lighting the dial comes off as a trout gray but in a brighter setting the dial emits a muted olive green. If you’re not keen on green dial watches, the Oris D65 Cal 400 is a perfect appetizer into that world for its neutral earthy tones. The cardinal hour markers pay tribute to the vintage Oris shield and the remaining hour markers are characterized by circular plots with white outlines. Continuing with the theme of “less is more”, Oris and Hodinkee have opted to remove the date window at three, creating a balanced and minimalist dial. As evidenced by the phosphorescent hue, the hour markers and stick hands are filled with Super Lumi-Nova, providing a brightly lit display that lasts well into the night.

Flipping the case over and viewing through the sapphire caseback, the D65 Cal 400 displays the new and innovative Calibre 400 movement from Oris. This current movement is equipped with an upgraded 5 day power reserve, an accuracy range falling within plus five / minus three seconds a day, which surpasses COSC chronometer specifications and a magnetic resistance rated to 2,250 gauss. To my immediate knowledge, Oris is one of a few independent brands that offer this type of movement ingenuity and capability, all of which is backed by the company's 10 year warranty, providing a comforting assurance to its customers to manage any issues that may arise during ownership. 

Nothing completes a slick vintage watch like a steel bracelet with a smooth taper, and Oris has had this dialed in from the get-go. The Oris D65 Cal 400 lug width comes in at 19 mm and slims down to the slender 15 mm double sided release clasp. Wearability wise, the Oris D65 Cal 400 has a lot going for it. The 38 mm case size will suit a wide range of wrist sizes and will wear comfortably due to the well-executed steel bracelet. With its muted tones, the dial color fits in seamlessly with daily wear and if for whatever reason the D65 Cal 400 gets stowed away for a bit, you can expect the watch to keep accurate time for 120 hours. The Oris-Hodinkee Diver 65 Calibre 400 is a fine blend of vintage Oris cues, contemporary design and practical wearability. You can find the Oris-Hodinkee Diver 65 Calibre 400 currently priced at $4,250 and available in the Belmont Watches online shop.

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